Ilam (Nepali: ईलाम) is a municipality and tea-producing town in Nepal. It is in Ilam District which is in hilly Eastern Region of Nepal. It is famous for its natural scenery and landscapes.
Ilam is a small hilly town with pristine landscapes of sloped tea gardens, thick natural forests, holy sites and a unique culture. There are several holy sites one can visit in and around the area. Ilam is a popular tourist destination for travelers of all kinds. It is also famous for its special brand Ilam Tea.
History of ethnicity and settlement of Ilam
Ilam was the district of Nepal - apart from Mustang - that remained independent, or rather unoccupied by the forces of Gorkha that formed Nepal into a single kingdom toward the end of the 18th century.
The dominant political and economic group at that time was the Limbu people. In the east there were the Kiranti kingdoms of the Rai and limbus, with their own separate languages and literature. Alongside were other, less numerical groups such as Sherpa, Rai and Lepcha - and others, too. There was a steady trickle of immigrants to the hills from the Terai lowlands, but that really shot speed as Ilam became integrated in the Nepalese nation state. The state set up a bureacucracy staffed by cheetri and brahmin people who in turn created favorable conditions for settled private agriculture and as last century came to and end, Ilam was more of a brahmin district than a Limbu one. Historically, the now minority groups have felt squeezed out of their land, but this feeling doesn't seem to linger as a political force anylonger. Apart from the occupational socalled low cast people, the real minority in Ilam today are the Lepcha, a people of Tibeto-Mongolian stock who also had their core areas and ancient kingdom here in Ilam. Remains of a Lepcha castle is situated on top of a pyramidical tree covered peak south of the ridge from Fikkal as it dips toward Maikhola. Nowadays, a mere 2500 Lepchas remain in Ilam, centered on Fikkal bazaar.
This history of Ilam is worth putting a thought into as you travel the eastern hills and watch people going about their lives.
Mai Beni river confluence
Mai Beni
by SaagarMai Beni site is where the rivers Maikhola and Jog Maikhola meet, and it is a major site of pilgrimage, with thousands of pilgrims and devotees converging here once a year. In fequent use, the temple and site is worth a visit most days with local religious activities going on. A bit upstream in the Jog Mai river there is a nice pool for swimming, exactly at the location of the trail crossing up to Namsaling.
Maipokhari lake
Maipokhari is a small star-shaped lake (1.6 hectar) located in Sulubung VDC, 11 km from Ilam Bazaar and at 7200 ft altitude. This is a beautiful spot surrounded by very nice forests protected by religious belief and a smallish temple complex. The Maipokhari Lake has religious significance and is a site of pilgrimage during Kartik Ekadasi and a big mela once a year on the day of the Thulo Ekadasi.
Close to Maipokhari is the 3400-metre peak Chhintapu, separating the Singalila Range and the Mahabharat Range. Nice to visit for a view around and a sunset stop on the \weay back at Kothidanda. Beautiful rhododendron forests up here.
Directions: Via Ilam Bazaar. From there 11 km by road. Due to the situation you will need to check on conditions first as this is currently well within maoist territory.
Sandakpur viewpoint
Sandakpur lies at the northern edge of Ilam District, and is Illam's highest point at 3636 meters. Sandakpur provides a fantastic view of the eastern Himalayas from Bhutan to Everest. But the main view of Kanchenjuga is what takes your breath away.
Sandakpur straddles the border between Nepal and India and is a bit of extraterritorial area. You can visit from both the Indian and Nepalese side, with the visa from the country com arrive from. Due to maoist conflict, it is probably best now to arrive from the West Bengal side/Darjeeling. A very beautiful approach whichever way is chosen. There is a rough road from India via Mane Bhanyang. From the Indian side there is a trekking route north along the border, and dropping back down to the valleys after reaching Sandakpur. From the Nepal side there is a road to Khorsanitar from Ilam (21 km), and from there you have a few hours walk.
Kanyam tea
The best teas in Nepal come from the Kanyam area. Most of the tea fields here are owned by the Kanyam Tea Estate, on private lease from the government.
The tea fields are a popular picninc spot, scenic as it is. You are able to look into India toward Darjeeling. Unfortunately, but good for the tea, there is frequently a very cool and clammy fog here.
Directions: Coming up from the Terai, you cross this area about half-way to Ilam Bazaar.
Ilam tea
Ilam District (along with Jhapa and a few other eastern Nepal places) is a major tea producer. The tea quality here is just as good as Darjeeling's across the border to India. In fact, much tea is carried across the border and added to Darjeeling's production of "Darjeeling Tea".
You will pass tea gardens and see tea pluckers on your way by road, and around Ilam Bazaar.
The best tea is probably not available in Ilam, but in Kathmandu. The big tea houses have their offices and outlets in Kathmandu. Look for Ilam's orange pekoes, Ilam - especially Kanyam's first flushes and others if you wish to bring home a tasty and home-grown souvenir.
Cardamom fields
The darker side of Ilam? Perhaps not, but in the shadowy, soggy side valleys and foggy slopes of Ilam's huge hills the cardamom is a major cash crop. Under tree cover normally, you will find huge amount of these leaves (photo). Underneath are knobbly scaly roots, that are dried and sold to middlemen and exported to India for the most part. A smoking house in Ilam is most often the sign that moneymaking cardamom -drying is on the way. Go, take a look!
Directions: You will find cardamom along the main road from the Terai in the shadowy tracts, and almost everywhere else whenyou're out hiking between villages.
